I had a couple hours between my arrival in Limoges and my train and in an effort to avoid a 24 Euro cab fare (there wasnt a bus from the airport) I hitchhiked from the airport towards Limoges. Ivan stopped to pick me up within 1 minute of lifting my thumb, and I limped through my french as we drove through the farmland.
Ivan is a local politician (“like donald trump”, he explained with a grin), and we exchanged pleasantries until we arrived at the edge of town. Ivan lives outside the city limits, and he kindly dropped me near the highway so I could try for another ride. After trying for 20 minutes at another roundabout, I chased down a lady to ask for walking directions to the train station and she directed me towards a city bus stop a mile away. By the time I got to the stop I was drenched.
My train was delayed, and when I boarded I promptly fell asleep and drooled all over myself to the disgust of my neighbor. Tant pis.
Louise picked me up at the train station and, of course, we were stoked to be back together. Always blows my mind how you can hop on a plane and be in a different world in a matter of hours. We drove 30 minutes from the train stop in Gourdon to Louise’s family house where a delicious meal awaited us.
Around the table was Therese, (Louise’s grandmother), Martine (aunt), Regine (great aunt), Louie (great uncle), and Laura (cousin). We ate grilled vegetables from the garden, drank homemade liquor, and finished the meal with a homemade peach cake. My french lurched through the meal and my brain operated at half speed after two days of travel, but I was over the moon to be in the boondocks and out of an airplane.
the house we are staying at
The next day was a slow recovery day that involved reading and snacking. Louise and I ventured into town in Louie’s car to pick up some groceries, and Louise explained her families emphasis on buying items from stores that specialize in them. For example, you never buy meat at the grocery store, you buy it at the butcher. The same goes for cheese, produce, and bread. You buy directly from the farm or the independent store. You do not poison yourself with all-in-one nonsense.
For an appetizer we spread chunks of fatty paté on fresh bread. Paté is typically duck meat and fat combined with some spices and resembles a hunk of meatloaf in appearance. It is rich food, and since Louise introduced me to it in Rio it has remained one of my favorite french foods.
During this meal, Regine explained that she had spent the afternoon collecting walnuts to make a homemade walnut liquor, and that the name of liquor in French is l’eau du vie (i.e. Life Water).
Regine working in the garden
The following day I woke up and took a quick run by a nearby strawberry farm where workers speaking portuguese populated the fields. The path quickly descended into forest and I did not see another person on the entirety of the jog.
During the day, Martine drove Louise and I to Cahors, the largest town nearby the house. The drive took around an hour, and as we left the car it started to pour. Martine recommended a wine tasting and we happily obliged, sipping three glasses of Malbec blends (around 40-50% Malbec, 10-15% Merlot).
The rain subsided, and we spent the rest of the afternoon wandering around the city and eating pastries. Louise had to get her first round of vaccinations before we leave for India (the reason for the day trip) and we ended up back at the house around 8 for a dinner of Foie Gras and a beautiful tomato quiche.
Observations:
Wine is served every lunch and dinner (both rose and red, and people have no apprehension about switching between the two). We always drink out of small water glasses. I think its funny that we are in the place known for some of the best wine in the world and the family doesn’t bother with wine glasses. I’d guess this is partially due to the country style of life and partially due to the fact that a solid wine is a solid wine regardless of the glassware. In the US people get hung up on things like types of glasses when they should really be more concerned with what they’re drinking.
Bread bread bread bread bread. I’ve eaten damn near an entire loaf of bread since I arrived. Bread for breakfast with butter and honey. Bread for lunch with cheese. Bread to scrape the plate once you’re done. Bread with Paté. Bread.
There is a definite emphasis on doing things well, not efficiently. Although it would be much more efficient to do all the shopping in one place, it wouldn’t be shopping well. After the table is set with food, the family often sits and reflects for anywhere from 2-5 minutes before anyone moves. This is a stark juxtaposition against my family where it’s like watching starved lemurs fight over a biscuit. The family cuts their food slowly and chews thoughtfully. More than once a meal someone will remark that some part of the meal is beautiful, and the table will nod their head in agreement. I’m relieved that Louise’s family aren’t extremely talkative as if they were I would have no idea how to fit myself into their world.
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